Sorry no, but I cribbed a lot from several sites. It is not all plain sailing because these things are pretty dangerous to mess around with. I did a few things different. Some mods recommend adding more insulation but they do not really need that because you also have to think of the cool down stage if you are trying to achieve the profiles. If an oven needs insulation then its element power is too low!
I would have liked to build the Sparkfun controller board but it was dificult to get hold of in UK so I bought a SET64rs PID controller off Fleabay. This is a pretty much an all singing dancing PID temperature controller with ramp functions and proportional solid state relay output. However, it is a nightmare to understand and program. I modded my unit internally for RS422 comms and added on a USB converter to talk to it from a PC. I am using a simple and clunky software application to talk to it, but it makes setting it up a lot easier than using the front panel.
The PID controller takes K-Type thermocouples and these are small enough to be glued to a board or stuck with Kapton tape. The PID controller can store up to 16 different values and has 'autotune' That means you activate it then let the oven run to and maintain a temperature and the controller then works out and stores the best numbers for you. For ramps these 'numbers' can be slightly different at different stages so you have to spend a little time calibrating your oven. Once you arrive at a particular profile I can save the settings to a PC file and load it back in for a different solder melt, top element /bottom element running or each of 3 positions inside the oven.
I wired a solid state relay in parallel with the existing thermostat which I replaced because it was rubbish. I also replaced their over temperature bi-metal trip so my oven can get to 260 degrees C. and I can still rely on the cutout as backup. I kept the timer wired in because again, that is a backup to switch off the oven if I forget. It hasn't burned the contacts with the extra 3 amps either.
Mine is a Chinese version branded as 'Andrew James'. A Load of rubbish as far as quality is concerned and I would never allow one in my kitchen having seen how they are made. Mine has a fan and is 1380 watts native plus I added an extra 750 watts. The top and bottom elements are switchable. Many of these toaster ovens have the standard form of steel sheathed pencil element top and bottom like mine. I added the 2 X 1500W quartz glass heaters wired in series. They glow a lovely cherry red and I think put out more Infra red than the steel sheathed types, with a faster warm up time.
You need to remember that if you are trying to emulate the solder profiles you want a fast temperature rise to over 200 deg C and some way to control cooling after the peak. Opening the door works quite well but I am about to try a fan. Before doing anything with the PID controller setting ramps etc or modding the oven, I switched the oven on from cold whilst monitoring some scrap board with a probe fitted. If the temperature rise was not faster than that in the profile, then I would not have gone further. But I can get nearly 3 degrees C per minute without proportional control which is fine. Cooling is too slow even with the door open which is why I will try an exhaust fan, may be connected to one of the controller alarms. I will add these links which I copied from my resource file, but take care with the safety aspects. If I repeated my project I would look for a toaster oven with fan and quartz glass heating elements as I think you get more IR from them, but at the time they were more expensive. I see the cheap Chinese reflow ovens also use quartz glass elements.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw ... 0736766426
http://www.mavromatic.com/2011/04/diy-b ... en-part-1/
http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2011/07/22 ... er-shield/
http://www.recontech.co.uk/index.php/th ... en?start=1
http://www.temperaturecontrolwiki.com/c ... enix_4.pdf
That should be enough to get you interested - But take care!