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By Grimm Spector
#17584
Ok working on a portable power issue, I'd like to take AC power to a device that's portable, I've never used AC power with my electronics before, so I don't exactly know how. I know I have to build a rectifier, some diodes and the like should work for that if I can find some able to handle enough power. My question is, how much is enough? And what's the best way to step down the voltage to values around 5 v or 3.3 volts?
By npk
#17608
Basically, you need a transformer to a full wave-rectifier, and then something that will keep the voltage constant. Say a zener diode or a 7805, or a switched module. Full wave rectifiers are often sold as individual components that can handle multiple amps. A good thing to use is a connector module, which is the standard 3 plug jack on the back of a computer with built in inductors & fuses. Of course, we need to know more about the details.

Beware, this can be a dangerous undertaking, you need to use fuses, you should ground the case. Make sure you shrink-wrap and cable tie wires, so that if a solder joint breaks, you don't have a wire touching something bad. You have an ethical responsibility to not hurt anyone.

Consider other options:
wall warts
computer power supplies
batteries
etc.

good luck
n
By Grimm Spector
#17644
npk wrote:Basically, you need a transformer to a full wave-rectifier, and then something that will keep the voltage constant. Say a zener diode or a 7805, or a switched module. Full wave rectifiers are often sold as individual components that can handle multiple amps. A good thing to use is a connector module, which is the standard 3 plug jack on the back of a computer with built in inductors & fuses. Of course, we need to know more about the details.

Beware, this can be a dangerous undertaking, you need to use fuses, you should ground the case. Make sure you shrink-wrap and cable tie wires, so that if a solder joint breaks, you don't have a wire touching something bad. You have an ethical responsibility to not hurt anyone.

Consider other options:
wall warts
computer power supplies
batteries
etc.

good luck
n
I'll need to use a standard wall receptacle plug, the receptacle for a NEMA5-15P if I'm not mistaken, on the unit.

Insulating anything that will be using AC or higher voltages is defnitely something that must be done.

Where could I find a transformer that would suit my needs, getting me down to around 6 volts without blowing all my small electronics at the end of it? Since it depends on the amp rating. I know rectification is important, so I'll have to drop the two channels through rectifiers to ensure electron flow goes from - to + through the circuit, and you say a zener diode would allow me to maintain my voltage that I drop to. Where would I look for a full wave rectifier?

To make the project simple I'll be making a box, with a wall plug, and inside will be 3 chaging circuits for SFE's LiPos, each attached to their own LiPo, the units going to later be pluggable into my other projects for power, so output isn't much of a concern at this time.
By bikeNomad
#17667
Is there any particular reason why you'd want to build a power supply like this, when pre-made "wall warts" are widely available, and can be found at thrift shops and junk stores cheaply?

Even large manufacturers buy these things, to avoid the hassle of making their own power supplies!
By Grimm Spector
#17675
bikeNomad wrote:Is there any particular reason why you'd want to build a power supply like this, when pre-made "wall warts" are widely available, and can be found at thrift shops and junk stores cheaply?

Even large manufacturers buy these things, to avoid the hassle of making their own power supplies!
because I'd rather be able to plugin to a grounded power supply for any other needs I may have, and let the unit filter the power when I can, and just charge the batteries when I'm not...
User avatar
By phalanx
#17712
Grimm Spector wrote:because I'd rather be able to plugin to a grounded power supply for any other needs I may have, and let the unit filter the power when I can, and just charge the batteries when I'm not...
How is this any different then just using a cheap wall wart?

-Bill
By Grimm Spector
#17720
phalanx wrote:
Grimm Spector wrote:because I'd rather be able to plugin to a grounded power supply for any other needs I may have, and let the unit filter the power when I can, and just charge the batteries when I'm not...
How is this any different then just using a cheap wall wart?

-Bill
Because if this item works out the way I intend, a wall wart will be A) inconvenient in a commercial environment, B) poorly conditioned, C) potential fire prone since I don't know what's in it, and D) not 'standard' as far as what the industry would expect and E) wall warts don't have a 3rd prong, there's no separate ground

I'd also like to learn to do it properly so I don't have to rely on premade hardware, for many reasons, again since I don't know what's being put into it is a big one.
User avatar
By phalanx
#17722
Grimm Spector wrote:Because if this item works out the way I intend, a wall wart will be A) inconvenient in a commercial environment, B) poorly conditioned, C) potential fire prone since I don't know what's in it, and D) not 'standard' as far as what the industry would expect and E) wall warts don't have a 3rd prong, there's no separate ground

I'd also like to learn to do it properly so I don't have to rely on premade hardware, for many reasons, again since I don't know what's being put into it is a big one.
A) I agree they can be inconvenient

B) Only on cheap ones. There are a number of manufactures that sell wall warts with very good regulation.

C) I've never heard of one going up in smoke before. Any decent one will have passed any one of a number of industry standard tests for safety. On a regulated wall wart the configuration is usually a transformer followed by a bridge rectifier and filter capacitors and finally a linear regulator. Some of the newer more compact units actually use a switching regulator which makes the entire system smaller and more powerful.

D) What industry are you in and what is considered "standard" ? I work for a defense contractor and wall warts are perfectly acceptable in a number of situations.

E) Wall warts usually don't have a ground because you are not bringing the dangerous mains voltages into your device. You would be very hard pressed to hurt yourself with the output of a 12V wall wart.

I can't argue with learning how to do it yourself. I often enjoy reinventing the wheel; sometimes more than once!

-Bill
By Grimm Spector
#17724
phalanx wrote:
Grimm Spector wrote:Because if this item works out the way I intend, a wall wart will be A) inconvenient in a commercial environment, B) poorly conditioned, C) potential fire prone since I don't know what's in it, and D) not 'standard' as far as what the industry would expect and E) wall warts don't have a 3rd prong, there's no separate ground

I'd also like to learn to do it properly so I don't have to rely on premade hardware, for many reasons, again since I don't know what's being put into it is a big one.
A) I agree they can be inconvenient

B) Only on cheap ones. There are a number of manufactures that sell wall warts with very good regulation.

C) I've never heard of one going up in smoke before. Any decent one will have passed any one of a number of industry standard tests for safety. On a regulated wall wart the configuration is usually a transformer followed by a bridge rectifier and filter capacitors and finally a linear regulator. Some of the newer more compact units actually use a switching regulator which makes the entire system smaller and more powerful.

D) What industry are you in and what is considered "standard" ? I work for a defense contractor and wall warts are perfectly acceptable in a number of situations.

E) Wall warts usually don't have a ground because you are not bringing the dangerous mains voltages into your device. You would be very hard pressed to hurt yourself with the output of a 12V wall wart.

I can't argue with learning how to do it yourself. I often enjoy reinventing the wheel; sometimes more than once!

-Bill
wow fast post Bill.

B) Good point, but I'd still rather not use them when I don't know what's in them.

C) I've blown a few DC wall wart units in my lifetime, mostly I expected it to happen with what I was doing, and you're right it's very hard to do unless you have a very junky unit, I've had a couple from overseas which blew for no reason

D) Well any grounded device requires a C14 or a NEMA5-15P plug, wall wart wouldn't cut it

E) very true, but I need the ground for some applications, and it may not kill you but it sure can smart

Learning is fun, and can only help me make my devices the best I possibly can. I'm just hoping for a bit more insight into doing this properly.