SparkFun Forums

[geekything]

Has anyone made a land print for the mini USB connector?

Before I attempt

-marc

[sparky]

I can get you the protel footprint if you need it.

If you create it in Eagle - post it on the www.opencircuits.com site, ok?

-Nathan

[lou]

I can get you the protel footprint if you need it.

If you create it in Eagle - post it on the www.opencircuits.com site, ok?

-Nathan

I found the Protel library on opencircuits. Unfortunately, even though there is a message saying that there is not as many parts defined for EAGLE, I do not see any EAGLE lib there. I was wondering whether somebody with Protel is able to export the library to some sort of textual data format. I think I have read that that is possible. Then maybe I could have a go at converting that text into something EAGLE can deal with. Probably a ULP that creates a proper EAGLE library.

[leon_heller]

Has anyone made a land print for the mini USB connector?

Before I attempt

-marc

Why not create it yourself? It should only take a few minutes.

Leon

[roach]

I have a package set up, which I have actually used on a real-world board, and I know it works. It matches up to the UX60-MB-5ST SMT package (Digikey Part #: H2959CT). I'll post it to OpenCircuits, (if I can figure out how to do that...) in the form of an EAGLE .lbr file.

[roach]

Well, I guess I'm an idiot. Or Wikis are beyond me. I can't for the life of me figure out how to create a new page for the connector on OpenCircuits. Is it the "upload a file" link?

update: NEver mind. I figured it out eventually. Should be up there, under Components > Connectors. Don't know if that's the right place for it, though, since there's only an EAGLE file...

[NleahciM]

Has anyone made a land print for the mini USB connector?

Before I attempt

-marc

Why not create it yourself? It should only take a few minutes.

Leon

no kidding

when I first started with Eagle I kept on trying to find pre-made parts. Eventually I had to start making my own - and in learning how to do so using all parts of Eagle just became sooo much easier. Not learning how to make your own parts is just shooting yourself in the foot, repeatedly.

[roach]

I think there is an initial trepidation when creating new parts in EAGLE, especially if you're new to the whole electronics thing (or just new to EAGLE). How do I know (really know) That this part I just created will come out okay on the board? I've had difficulty in the past, creating footprints based on data sheets, and ending up with a solder pad that is EXACTLY the same size as the lead on the part (typically, you want a bit of clearance, so you can actually soldert he damn thing).

Ultimately, though, you eventually have to start doing it yourself, and it gets easier and easier (like anything else).

I'm still waiting for circuit design to get easier, though.

[JonChandler]

Like roach says, there is some challenge to getting the footprints just right. My personal trick has been making the holes too small - if I'm lucky the leads can be worked in, but not always.

With a little digging, you should be able to find a drawing of the suggested mounting arrangement. Follow what the manufacturer reccomends but consider making the pads extend a bit further than recommended if you'll be hand-soldering an SMD part.

Finally, after the board is laid out and the Gerbers generated, look at the Gerber files with a Gerber viewer - there are a number of free ones available. The Gerbers show what will actually get made, so this is the reality check. Check to see if what's on the board matches the recommended footprint and see if the part will actually fit!

Finally, the best-kept secret is www.freedfm.com. Upload your files to them and in a few minutes, you'll have an e-mail indicating any problems that their system has found. Overlapping holes, layers that are a mirror-image of what they should be and other problems are quickly found.

[Philba]

looks pretty good.

a couple of points:
- the doc says the pads should be .5 x 2.3 mm, you've drawn them .5x2 probably not an issue but it is different from the drawing that sfe links to.
- you've drawn the outline in the tplace layer. this will cause silk screen ink on the pads (particularly the ground/mount pads). I usually put those lines in the tdoc layer. When I make my gerbers, I omit tdoc and thus no ink on the pads. I'll draw the outline as much as possible in tplace, though. I honestly don't know how important this issue is but like to avoid paint on my pads.

And man do I agree with the making your own parts comment. It does force you to understand eagle a lot better. Once I got over tha hump, I found the time to layout and route a board to be significant shorter.

Phil

[NleahciM]

looks pretty good.

a couple of points:
- the doc says the pads should be .5 x 2.3 mm, you've drawn them .5x2 probably not an issue but it is different from the drawing that sfe links to.
- you've drawn the outline in the tplace layer. this will cause silk screen ink on the pads (particularly the ground/mount pads). I usually put those lines in the tdoc layer. When I make my gerbers, I omit tdoc and thus no ink on the pads. I'll draw the outline as much as possible in tplace, though. I honestly don't know how important this issue is but like to avoid paint on my pads.

And man do I agree with the making your own parts comment. It does force you to understand eagle a lot better. Once I got over tha hump, I found the time to layout and route a board to be significant shorter.

Phil

Regarding tplace vs. tdoc - a good boardhouse will remove any silkscreen that overlaps with the soldermask. Not sure what batchpcb does. But you are right - it is good practice to be careful with that.

[roach]

Thanks for the tips guys! As you may have surmised from my other posts about the board, I'm fairly new at this, so every little bit of advice helps...

[Philba]

Regarding tplace vs. tdoc - a good boardhouse will remove any silkscreen that overlaps with the soldermask. Not sure what batchpcb does. But you are right - it is good practice to be careful with that.

I recall some one writing here about getting silk screen over pads due to a mistake they made. Though it makes sense that the solder mask could also be used to exclude silk screen. should be a very easy thing to do.

The other reason you want to do this is for parts that protrude outside the board outline. If you left them in the silk layer(s), the batchpcb size calcs would be way off. I put those lines in tDoc and they don't make it to silk screen gerbers..