How about this Sparkfun board: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13990
Processor + bluetooth (+WiFi & NFC if that's of interest to you) and it's got two I2C ports to talk to your sensor AND it's cheaper than the bluetooth module you linked above.
How about this Sparkfun board: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13990
Processor + bluetooth (+WiFi & NFC if that's of interest to you) and it's got two I2C ports to talk to your sensor AND it's cheaper than the bluetooth module you linked above.
With practice (and the right tip), tiny parts certainly can be hand soldered. For prototypes with SMT parts, a step between solderless breadboard and custom PCB can be using adapter boards. Check out all the different ones available on Digikey https://www.digikey.com/products/en/prototyping-fabricat...
I think this would be simplest with an Arduino. There's a sample program called "Blink," it's one of the simplest possible programs, that could be modified a little to do what you want. I'm imagining you using 3 LEDs of each color so that you can diffuse the light and have a reasonably large circle ...
That sounds like a really fun, kinda big project! This https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14236 will let you turn on and off your cooler/light/humidifier/fan from the Arduino. (I think this is what you meant by "switch board"?) Unfortunately, I think you'll need a separate one for each appliance sinc...
Have you tried it with a real power supply? A regular 9V battery is not going to give you enough current (or at least not for very long!). From the Dynalloy site, the Flexinol wire with a pull force of 2.83 lbs requires about 1.5 amps for a second to cause that kind of contraction.
On page 42 of the FLIR Lepton's datasheet, it has a specification that the maximum range of temperatures that can be distinguished inside a scene is 0 - 400 degrees Kelvin. So looking at a 110 degC object in a roughly room temperature (23degC-ish?) place would only give you a swing of 87 degC (or de...
The datasheet of the LT3652 chip explains what it means. Basically if a fault occurs during battery charging, like overheating (NTC resistor) or charging takes too long, that pin goes high . But it is to be read in combination with the notCHRG pin. Why don't you connect leds to it? Better to be sur...
If the charging chip is seeing a problem, it'll pull the fault line LOW. If you're seeing a positive voltage on that pad, the LT3652 (U1) thinks everything is a-ok. Here's the relevant snippet from the datasheet: "FAULT (Pin 5): Open-Collector Charger Status Output; typically pulled up through a res...